I’m a doctor – here’s the hard truth behind the viral beauty trend of facial rolls

Welcome to Ask Doctor Zac, a weekly column from news.com.au. This week, Dr Zac Turner explores whether face rolls are effective or not.

QUESTION: Hi Dr Zac, my mom says you are the trending king of TikTok influencers. I’m 17 years old and I get a lot of advice from TikTok. I want to stay young and beautiful forever haha. So do gua sha and facial rolling tools really work, or are they just a fad? – Kayla, 17, Torquay, Victoria

ANSWER: As a doctor, I hear this question a lot – especially from patients who struggle with puffiness around the eyes or a puffy face in the morning.

I’ll admit, I too have been looking for ways to banish those stubborn under-eye bags. Whether it’s from a late night or one too many glasses of wine, waking up with red, puffy eyes isn’t exactly the look most of us are going for. But can gua sha and facial rollers really help? Let’s dig into what actually works.

Before we get into the claims, let’s break down what these tools actually are.

Gua sha comes from traditional Chinese medicine, using a smooth-edged tool—usually jade or rose quartz—to gently scrape the skin. This is believed to increase circulation and relieve tension.

The modern version focuses on the face, aiming to give the skin a fresh and radiant appearance. Meanwhile, facial rollers, often made of similar materials, slide over the skin to help with puffiness and lymphatic drainage.

The Claims: Truth or Just Clever Marketing Influences Embraced?

The promises that gua sha and facial rolls can contour your face, smooth fine lines and promote lymphatic drainage sound fantastic.

But is there solid evidence behind these claims, or are we being sold a beauty dream?

Facial contouring and puffiness reduction

One of the most common reasons I recommend gua sha is to reduce puffiness – especially with the puffiness under the eyes that many people wake up with. And yes, that includes the mornings after a late night party. A cold gua sha tool can work wonders here, with the cold stone helping to tighten the skin, followed by a warm one to maintain the effect as the stone warms. This process can help reduce swelling, as the massage action encourages lymphatic drainage. There is even a study in Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology which supports gua sha’s ability to improve microcirculation and relieve fluid retention, at least temporarily.

That said, if you’re after those Hollywood-level cheekbones, a quick session with a gua sha isn’t going to cut it—unless, of course, you roll it up and take that selfie right after while the effect is fresh. .

The reality is that any sculpting effect is temporary and relies on reducing fluid build-up. For long-lasting contouring, you’ll need something more substantial than just a jade tool.

Wrinkle reduction: A little stretching

While it’s clear that gua sha can make skin look fresh, can it really get rid of wrinkles? This is where things get a little murky.

A review in Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology found that while facial massage techniques such as gua sha can give a temporary boost to skin elasticity, they are no match for retinoids or laser treatments when it comes to treating deeper wrinkles. So you might get a short-lived glow and slightly firmer skin from the increased circulation, but don’t ditch the anti-aging serums just yet.

Lymphatic drainage: This is the real deal

Where gua sha really shines is in stimulating lymphatic drainage.

Think of the lymphatic system as the body’s waste disposal service – when it’s sluggish, you may notice fluid build-up – showing a puffy face. By gently running the tool across the skin, you can help move this fluid toward the lymph nodes, reducing that swelling.

Research published in Journal of Traditional Chinese Medicine highlights the role of gua sha in promoting lymphatic circulation. But as with contouring, the benefits of draining don’t last forever, often disappearing within hours. Regular use is key if you want to keep that fresh look.

Beyond research, I’ve seen firsthand how these tools can help with specific concerns. Recently, I had several patients dealing with blepharitis – a condition that causes swelling of the eyelids. In these cases, I suggested using a cold gua sha that has been refrigerated and then gently rolling it over the affected areas. Note, I also suggested a cute pack, but gua sha for a 15 and 18 year old seemed more fun. The cold sensation, combined with light pressure, helped reduce the swelling. But an essential tip here: always clean your gua sha after every use, especially if there is a potential infection. It’s a simple step that can prevent bacteria from remaining in the vehicle and causing further problems.

Speaking from experience, if you’re trying to avoid dreaded morning eyes, it’s worth paying attention to your moisturizing habits, too.

As tempting as a glass of red with dinner can be, alcohol before bed can make those puffy eyes worse. Better to enjoy your drink earlier in the day and stick to water after 5pm. While my suggestion to drink during the day can be taken with a grain of salt, your skin—and your morning reflection—will thank you.

Maximum benefits (without wasting your time)

Here’s the thing: if you want to get the best results from a gua sha or a facial roller, consistency and proper technique are non-negotiable. A quick 20 second spin won’t cut it.

To see any real benefits, you’ll need to spend at least 5-10 minutes per session. Studies from Journal of Dermatological Science suggest that continuous facial massage is necessary to improve skin circulation and elasticity. Plus, these repetitive movements can activate your parasympathetic nervous system, which helps to relax you and relieve stress—something we could all use a little more of these days.

With that in mind, I think doing it in bed while reading or something similar is where I’ve used it most often, or listening to a meditation song.

If you enjoy the soothing ritual of using face rollers or gua sha for a quick pick-me-up, they can be a nice addition to your routine. They help with temporary puffiness, but won’t give you lasting results like smoother eyes or more defined cheekbones. Think of them as a quick fix rather than a permanent solution. And remember, hygiene is key – always clean your tools properly after each use, especially if you use them near your eyes or have sensitive skin. A little care now can prevent bigger problems later.